Two weeks of Senja Wilderness

Martin & Philipp did it. They packed their kayaks and disappeared into the wild coastline of Senja for two weeks.

Kayaking, freediving, fishing, foraging, cooking outdoors, making fires and finding camp along the way; all the good stuff that comes with travelling slowly and carrying everything you need with you.

After the expedition, I asked Philipp ten questions about their journey: where they went, what they experienced, what they learned, and what it’s really like to spend two weeks exploring Senja by sea kayak.

Here are his answers.

1. Why Senja?

The idea came about several years earlier, when a friend sent me a newspaper article about a kayaking trip along the coast of Senja. The images of the mountains, fjords and remote beaches stayed with me.

What particularly appealed to me was the combination of an impressive and challenging coastline and a landscape where we could not only paddle, but also live outdoors, fish, dive and source part of our food ourselves.

When I went spearfishing in Norway with my cousin Martin in 2025, we also realized that we work very well together as an outdoor team. That eventually led to the idea of exploring Senja together by sea kayak.

2. Norwegian Rules & Outdoor Etiquette

I was already very familiar with the rules and outdoor etiquette in Scandinavia. I had previously been on numerous trips throughout Scandinavia. I also teach survival courses myself and lead expeditions in different regions of the world.

For me, treating nature, campsites and fire responsibly, and leaving a place with as little trace as possible, are therefore fundamental parts of a trip like this.

3. Daily paddling distances

It varied a lot - and that was exactly how we had planned it. On some days we did not paddle at all because we wanted to stay in one place, explore the surroundings, dive, fish or wait for the weather. On the days when we did paddle, we covered approximately 15 to 35 kilometres.

It was important to us not to have to follow a fixed mileage plan. The weather, sea conditions and interesting places should determine how far we travelled each day and when we moved on.

5. Biggest challenges?

The biggest challenge was the combination of the sea, weather and physical strain.

One particularly memorable passage was in the south of Senja. The weather was sunny and stable, but the waves became significantly higher and more irregular than we had expected. Because of the rocky coastline, there were hardly any reasonable opportunities to land. For more than an hour, we had to paddle with intense concentration until we reached more sheltered water again. The situation remained manageable, but it showed us very clearly that even in seemingly good weather, the sea dictates the conditions.

6. Weather, wind, waves and tides

Very strongly. We had a planned route, but we never saw it as an obligation. Before major passages, we checked the conditions and decided together whether to continue or stay where we were.

A good example was our bay on the west coast. Originally, it was only supposed to be a stopover. Because of the weather, we initially decided to stay – and that eventually turned into six days and one of the most important parts of the entire journey.

On the water, we constantly had to weigh up wind direction, waves, exposed crossings and possible landing sites. Especially along a rocky coastline, the crucial question is not only whether you can paddle a particular stretch. At least as important is where you could safely get out of the water again if the conditions change.

7. Favorite piece of equipment

Our curiosity and our experience – even though neither of them fits into a dry bag.

If it actually has to be a product, then: soy sauce powder. It weighs almost nothing, is uncomplicated and makes practically every meal a little better. After a few days outdoors, that is surprisingly valuable.

8. Favorite food

Definitely: sea urchin with sea sandwort, baked in a dough pocket over the fire – and, of course, seasoned with soy sauce powder.

For me, it was one of those meals that tastes so special precisely because a large part of the ingredients comes directly from your surroundings and you have gathered and prepared them yourself. After a few days outdoors, a dough pocket like that was fine dining for us.

Food in general was an important part of the trip. Among other things, we caught fish and crabs and gathered mussels, sea urchins, various types of seaweed, coastal plants and berries. As a result, cooking became not just a necessary means of feeding ourselves, but part of our daily exploration.

9. Firewood and drinking water

We cooked exclusively over an open fire. We combined the staple foods we had brought with us, such as oats, couscous, flour and spices, with whatever we caught and gathered along the way.

The availability of firewood varied depending on the location. Where there was enough wood, we quickly developed a simple system: we always kept dry tinder ready and pre-dried wood for the next fire. This meant that even during prolonged rain, we could reliably make a fire and cook.

10. Do you recommend to do this?

I would definitely recommend a trip like this on Senja, but not as a journey where you draw a route on a map and then try to cover as many kilometres as possible. For me, a large part of its value came from having enough time in reserve. If you find an extraordinary place or the weather forces you to stay, you should be able to allow yourself to remain there.

At the same time, the coastline should be taken seriously. A weather forecast alone is not enough. Wind, waves, exposed crossings and, above all, possible landing sites need to be part of your decisions. I consider good paddling skills, appropriate safety equipment, redundant means of communication and the willingness to change a plan at any time essential.